Motorcycles and Passengers

The Passenger's Job

A motorcycle passenger can't contribute much to the stability of the motorcycle, because any bike is easier to ride without a passenger. This is true no matter how skilled the passenger. Motorcycles are, by their basic principles, a single-person vehicle. Even the giant road bikes are safer, more stable, and more comfortable without a passenger.

So, the passenger's primary job is to destabilize the vehicle as little as possible. The best way to do that is to mirror the actions of the rider as smoothly as possible. The easiest way to do what the rider does is to be attached to the rider. Women riding with men seem to automatically know this and keep a firm hold on the rider's waist or hips.

The secondary job of a rider is to act as a second set of eyes and ears connected to a second brain. If two minds are better than one anywhere, it's even more true on a motorcycle. There are obstacles and hazards coming toward you from every direction on a motorcycle. A good rider can cover about 180 degrees of hazard observation. A good rider with a good passenger can almost double that.

Motorcycles are poor places for daydreaming, even as a passenger. You should be watching, listening, and smelling for hazards and changes in the riding environment any time the vehicle is in motion. If you keep in mind that you're traveling on a "life-support mechanism" that needs constant attention, you may save your own life.

Before you go into motion, you should have a basic communication system in place. Don't count on being able to talk over the wind noise, unless you have a headset communication system. Headsets fail and you may need to quickly get the rider's attention in an emergency, so, you still need a basic manual system. If an intercom is not used, the co-rider and rider need to establish communication signals. Suggested signals could be:

• Right turn - squeeze or tap the right arm
• Left turn - squeeze or tap the left arm
• Stop or slow down - squeeze or tap with both arms
• Other (bathroom break, I’m hungry/thirsty, cut that out!, etc.)
• For rider-to-co-rider signals, it’s easier to tap the right or left leg for turns and to lean back slightly as a signal for stopping or slowing.

With all of these precautions in place, we go riding.

Quick Tips for Carrying Passengers

1. Equip and adjust your motorcycle to carry passengers:

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  A proper seat—large enough to hold both of you without crowding. You (rider) should not sit any farther forward than you usually do.
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  Footpegs for the passenger are required by law in Minnesota. A firm footing prevents your passenger from falling off and pulling you off, too.
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  Adjust the suspension to handle the additional weight. Add a few pounds of pressure to the tires if necessary (check your owner’s manual.)
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  While your passenger sits on the bike with you, adjust the mirrors according to the change in the motorcycle’s angle.

2. Even if your passenger is a motorcycle rider, provide complete instructions before you start. The passenger should:

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  Mount the motorcycle after you have started the engine and have the bike pointed in the right direction.
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  Squeeze the front brake while the passenger mounts and dismounts.
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  Sit as far forward as possible without crowding you.
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  Hold firmly to your waist, hips, or belt.
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  Keep both feet on the pegs at all times, even when stopped.
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  Keep legs away from the muffler(s).
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  Remain directly behind you, looking over your shoulder in turns.
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  Avoid unnecessary talk or movements when the bike is in motion.

3. Tell your passenger to tighten his or her hold when you:

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  Approach surface problems.
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  Are about to start from a stop.
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  Warn him or her that you are going to make a sudden move.

4. Your motorcycle will respond differently with a passenger on board. The more weight you carry, the more effort it will take to slow down, speed up, or turn—especially on a lighter bike.

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  Ride at a slower pace, especially when taking curves, corners, or bumps.
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  Maintain a larger cushion of space from other vehicles.
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  Wait for larger gaps to cross, enter, or merge into traffic.
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  Take time to practice braking, accelerating, and turning with a passenger on board to develop the different skills you'll need at the controls.

5. Other tips:

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  Start the engine before your passenger gets on the bike. Squeeze the front brake while the passenger mounts or dismounts.
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  Don’t try to impress your passenger with your skills or daring. For a new passenger, the best experience will be a smooth, relaxed ride with few surprises.

Effective Braking

The Fundamentals

Sometimes when you're teaching someone how ride a motorcycle it's easy to forget to teach him or her to stop one. It's easy to forget that stopping is as important as starting, and for the beginner, it can be nearly as difficult a skill to master.

Using the brakes on a bike is much more challenging than using the brakes on a car. A rider must use both hands and both feet at the same time to stop a motorcycle. In one motion, the rider must pull in the clutch lever with the left hand and squeeze the front brake lever with the right, while shifting down to first gear with the left foot and pressing down on the rear brake pedal with the right.

The front brake is the more important of the two brakes. An average motorcycle relies on the front brake for 70-to-80 percent of its stopping power. Bikes with long wheelbases and a more rearward weight distribution (like cruisers) rely more heavily on their rear brakes than bikes with shorter wheelbases (like sportbikes) but even on a cruiser, it is the front brake that does most of the work when stopping.

Contrary to persistent mythology, a motorcycle will not flip over accidentally if the rider uses the front brake. On modern sport bikes, it's possible to raise the rear wheel by applying the front brake--this stunt is called a "stoppie"--but to do this requires a good bit of skill and practice. It also beats the living daylights out of your motorcycle.

It's important to develop a feel for what your brakes are doing so that you can apply the appropriate force for a given situation. You don't want to squeeze the brake lever or press the brake pedal too hard, or you'll lock up your tires and skid. This is especially true of the rear tire, which locks up more easily than the front tire, especially on modern motorcycles, most of which are equipped with rear disc brakes. According to a report issued by the California Highway Patrol in the mid-1990s, a rider locking up his or her rear brake is a factor in the majority of all the crashes they investigated. 

Locking up the brakes is Not a Good Thing. When your tire is sliding, it drastically reduces traction and braking efficiency while drastically increasing your odds of crashing. If your rear tire starts to skid, there's a good chance you'll either low side the bike (slide down on the road and crash), or high side the bike (start to slide one direction, then flip over in the other direction). A high side, the worst kind of single-vehicle crash you can have, happens when the rider releases the brake while skidding. This allows the tire to regain traction, jerking the motorcycle in the opposite direction. 

The best technique to use for a skidding tire is to not skid the tire in the first place. If you do so accidentally:

• Rear-wheel skid: keep the rear wheel locked until you're completely stopped, keeping your eyes focused straight ahead and not at the ground. Exception: if you skid the rear wheel on a poor surface like gravel, it is possible to regain traction by gradually easing up on the rear brake pedal. The key there is gradually.)
• Front-wheel skid: release the front brake and then reapply it immediately, being careful to squeeze the front brake lever and not "grab" it.

Two Wheels Versus Four Wheels

Riding a two-wheeled vehicle involves all sorts of weird chassis dynamics, dynamics not experienced in a four-wheeled vehicle. 

The relatively small amount of rubber in the contact patch of a motorcycle tire means a motorcycle has less traction available than a car. Plus, unlike cars, motorcycles lean when they turn. As your motorcycle leans, the available traction changes: this means you have less traction available in a turn. Anyone who has watched much motorcycle road racing has probably seen more than a few racers crash because they applied the brakes while leaning over in corners.

To further complicate matters, when you accelerate, decelerate, or brake, you upset the chassis of your motorcycle, causing it to move around. Not only does this distract you, it varies the amount of pressure on your tires, which in turn varies your available traction.

• Because of the physics involved with riding a motorcycle, you should get your braking done before you turn. Apply the brakes when the motorcycle is upright, before you lean over to turn. If you brake when you're leaned over, you're much more likely to skid than you are if you brake when the motorcycle is upright. Remember, when you're leaned over, you have less traction available.
• If you are going too fast and need to slow down in a corner, the best technique is to stand the bike up for a brief moment, brake hard in a straight line, then immediately lean back into the curve. If you do this for more than a split second, you will run off the road, which sort of defeats your purpose. Your best technique is to not enter the corner too hot in the first place.

Braking Practice

Locking up your brakes is a very dangerous situation. To help avoid it, practice stopping quickly in a parking lot or other area free of traffic and obstacles, being careful not to lock up the tires. While riding in a perfectly straight line, practice applying the brakes right up to the point of locking your tires. Make certain to give yourself plenty of room so you can decrease the brake pressure should you start to skid, yet still have enough space to safely stop. Remember, the point is to perfect your skills should an emergency situation arise, not create an emergency situation.

During this exercise you will most likely skid the tires, but if you are going perfectly straight and don't panic, it should prove harmless. And if you do panic and fall down, of course you will be wearing proper safety gear, so most likely you won't be seriously hurt. This practice will give you a sense of where the limits are in an emergency braking situation, allowing you to stop in the most effective manner.

Only after you are comfortable with your ability to feel what the tires are doing through the brake lever and brake pedal should you venture out on public roads.

Advanced Practice

Even after you master braking, you need to constantly practice emergency stops. Find a place with no traffic or obstacles and practice stopping as hard as you can. First practice stopping using just the front brake. At the slightest hint of the front tire locking up, release the front brake. Once you know the limits of your front brake and can instinctively apply them forcefully and quickly, begin adding a small amount of rear brake at the same time as you apply the front brake. Remember, the front brake does most of the work, and the rear brake locks the tire up much easier than the front, so you won't apply nearly as much pressure to the rear brake as you do to the front.

Tips

 Cover Your Brake Levers

While riding in any kind of high-risk area (which describes most places you'll ride), always cover your front brake with at least a couple of fingers--that is, ride with at least two fingers resting on your front-brake lever. Also, make certain your foot is in position to use the rear-brake pedal. Having your hand and foot in position to stop will give you an extra fraction of a second to stop, which, if you haven't figured this out by now, can mean the difference between life and death.

Antilock Brake Systems

ABS stands for Antilock Brake System. ABS systems on motorcycles operate much like those on cars-sensors detect when a wheel is not turning, and release pressure to the brake on that wheel, preventing a skid. Under normal conditions, a rider can do this without ABS, but in an emergency, it's a good feature to have, and can save your life.

Protective Riding Gear

 

             (Professional)                                        (Amateur)

Good motorcycle riding gear is not just for the racetrack. Wearing protective gear on the street separates the pros from the amateurs.

The pros wear protective gear because it looks great and can prevent injuries in a crash. Give yourself the same advantage on the street.

Gearing up can also prevent crashes by keeping you comfortable, alert and focused on the road. Conditions such as poor weather, blinding sun, darkness and heavy traffic can make motorcycling very risky. The right gear will protect you from the elements and make you more visible to other drivers. 

Good riding gear can be expensive, but decent equipment can be found at a reasonable price. Protective gear can also save you money on medical bills if you do crash. Buy the best gear you can afford.

                                                                                                     

To ride like a pro, dress like a pro. Think. Ride Smart.

            

Protect Your Eyes

Face Shield, Safety Glasses or Goggles

A clear view of your environment is critical to safe riding. Many hazards, including wind, rain, insects, and blowing sand and dirt, can impair your vision and increase your risk of crashing. That’s why pro riders use glasses, goggles, and helmets equipped with face shields to protect their eyes.

Eye protection comes in various styles, so choose equipment that you enjoy wearing. Select protective eyewear that is clear or has a yellow tint. Other tints can impair night vision.

Eyewear should be cleaned with soap, water, and a cloth or sponge before every ride. Avoid products such as paper towels, tissues, and napkins, which can scratch plastic lenses.

         

Your eyes are your best source of information. Think. Ride Smart.

Protect Your Head

Helmet

Use your head when you ride. Motorcycling may seem like a physical sport, but in reality, your safety depends on making good decisions — such as protecting your head with a helmet. Wearing a helmet will help ensure that you enjoy a lifetime of riding.

There are two general types of helmets: full coverage and partial coverage. A full-coverage helmet will protect your entire face. But if you enjoy a feeling of freedom and the wind on your face, you may prefer a partial-coverage helmet.

If you believe helmets are uncomfortable, you probably have not tried one that fits properly. Helmets that fit correctly are comfortable and will not distract you from the road or riding. It is important to find a helmet brand and size that is comfortable and fits snugly.

A helmet can also make you more visible. Choose a color that stands out in traffic. Helmets last from three to five years or for one impact. If a helmet is dropped or involved in a crash, it should be replaced.

Use your head. Think. Ride Smart.

Protect Your Body

Riding Suit

Wearing a motorcycle jacket or full riding suit reduces your risk of being injured and reduces the severity of any injuries. Good protection insulates you from heat, cold, rain, and flying debris. This increases your comfort and allows you to concentrate on riding, which means you are less likely to be involved in a crash.

Body protection comes in one-piece suits or jacket and pants combinations. Look for protective gear that has armored impact areas in the elbows, knees, shoulders, hips, and back.

Leather riding suits provide the best protection in a crash. Although expensive,  leather can withstand multiple crashes before needing to be repaired or replaced, but it does not hold up well in the rain. Gear made from synthetic materials, such as durable plastic and nylon fabrics, provide all-weather protection, but may need to be repaired or replaced after one crash. To see how a good suit perfoms in a crash.

It is critical for motorcyclists to be highly visible. Wearing brightly colored protective gear improves your chances of being seen in traffic.

Dress for the slide, not the ride. Think. Ride Smart.

Protect Your Hands and Feet

Gloves and Boots

Hand and foot injuries are very common in motorcycle crashes. A rider’s hands are often the first body part make contact with the ground. In a crash, injuries to the feet and ankles are often caused by the motorcycle itself. Pro riders consider gloves and boots essential.

Heavy-duty gloves that fasten securely at the wrists will protect your hands and help you maintain a good grip on the controls. Leather motorcycle gloves offer the best fit, design, and protection.

Look for motorcycle boots that are reinforced and protect the toes, ankles and shins. Your boots should provide good support and be free of dangling laces.

You need your hands and feet to control the bike. Think. Ride Smart.

Extra Credit

Rain Gear

Depending on the gear you wear, it may be good to carry a rain suit with you. Spend a few extra dollars to keep yourself dry and protect your investment.

If you are caught in a rainstorm, you will understand the value of a waterproof suit, glove and boot covers. A rain suit will protect your gear from water damage and keep you from getting soaked. Rain suits also provide superior wind protection.

Stay dry. Think. Ride Smart.

Graduation

Total Body Protection

No matter how expensive or customized your motorcycle, riding without protective gear will make you look like an amateur.

Good gear is an investment that is worth every penny. Wearing protective gear will reduce severity of injuries in a crash, keep you comfortable and visible — and allow you to ride for longer periods. Get the best gear you can afford. 

Stand out from the crowd. Ride like a pro. Think. Ride Smart.

How to Lift a Fallen Motorcycle

Picking up a motorcycle can be dangerous and cause serious injury if done incorrectly or under poor footing. A simple back injury could wreck your life! Always, always, always try to get help first—and remember, you don't want anybody else to get hurt, either. You need to think clearly, use common sense, and be in good physical condition. Keep your body and back straight, and lift only with your legs. Maintain control of the motorcycle and never twist your body while lifting. Check the motorcycle for damage prior to riding it again. 

The majority of picking up a motorcycle is mental: Work smarter, not harder. Motorcycles are heavy machines. Think about how you want to do it first—if you were going to lift a 300-pound refrigerator, would you just run up and grab it and start muscling it around, or would you plan your attack? What would you do if you were going to lift an 800-pound refrigerator?

The ideal situation for lifting a motorcycle would be:

1. Have the lifting technique demonstrated by a qualified professional.

2. Practice with a qualified professional.

3. Have the qualified professional evaluate and coach your lifting technique.

Step 1: Assess Yourself

Take a few minutes to calm down. Seeing your bike lying on its side can be a traumatic experience, but it happens to everyone at one time or another. Your bike's not going anywhere without you. Spend a few minutes asking yourself questions and talking yourself through it: are you hurt? Are you able to pick up your motorcycle in a normal situation? Do you want to pick up your motorcycle? Is it safe to pick up your motorcycle? Etc., etc. You have the rest of your life to pick up your bike; take a few minutes to relax and assess the situation. It's best if you get help. And remember: if someone helps you, don't forget to warn them not to touch the hot exhaust pipe, not to lift by the turn signals, etc. Also make sure they lift correctly. You don't want someone else getting hurt.

Step 2: Assess the Environment

If you are in danger from other traffic, get away from your motorcycle and seek a place of safety. Let law enforcement respond and take control of the scene before picking up your motorcycle. Take a look at the ground: do you have a solid surface to lift from? Is there gravel? Is the pavement wet? Are you right next to a ditch? You don't want to slip and get pinned under your bike.

Step 3: Assess the Motorcycle

Turn it off using the engine cut-off switch or the ignition switch. Turn off the fuel using the fuel supply valve. Spilled fuel is common, so use caution (though usually you need sparks, flame, or an ignition source to have a fire or explosion.) If the motorcycle is lying on its right side, put the sidestand down and put the motorcycle in gear. If the motorcycle is on its left side, you can't put the side stand down and can't put the motorcycle in gear. Make a mental note of these facts. You don't want to pick up your motorcycle and then immediately drop it onto its other side! Techniques to Lift the Motorcycle—Preferred and Regular Methods.

Technique I: Facing Away from the Motorcycle - For Large Motorcycles Preferred Method for any Size

1. Turn the handlebars to full-lock position with front of tire pointed downward.

 

2. Find the "balance point" of the two tires and the engine, engine guard, or footpeg. The motorcycle will be fairly easy to lift until it reaches this point because it's resting on its side. Once you start lifting from there, you are responsible for the most of the weight of the bike. 

3. "Sit" down with your butt/lower back against the motorcycle seat. Be very careful to keep your back straight and your head up. Put your feet solidly on the ground about 12 inches apart, with your knees bent slightly.

4. With one hand, grasp the handgrip (underhand, preferably), keeping your wrist straight.

5. With your other hand, grip the motorcycle framework (or any solid part of the motorcycle), being careful to avoid the hot exhaust pipe, turn signals, etc.

6. Lift with your legs by taking small steps backwards, pressing against the seat with your butt and keeping your back straight. On slippery or gravelly surfaces this technique probably won't work. On inclined surfaces this can be very dangerous. 

 7. Be careful not to lift the motorcycle up and then flip it onto its other side! If possible, put the sidestand down and the bike in gear.

8. Set the motorcycle on its sidestand and park it safely.

Technique II: Facing the Motorcycle - For Small and Medium-Sized Motorcycles Regular Method.

1. Turn the handlebars to the full-lock position with the front of the tire pointed skyward. 

 2. Find the balance point of the two tires and the engine, engine guard, or footpeg. The motorcycle will be fairly easy to lift until it reaches this point because it's resting on its side. Once you start lifting from there, you are responsible for the most of the weight of the bike.

3. Stand very close to the handlebars. Plant your feet about shoulder-width apart with the lower handgrip in between them. Use both hands to lift. Keeping your back straight and your head up, lift carefully, keeping the handgrip close to your body. Use your leg muscles for power, and not your back muscles. 

  4. Be careful you don't lift the motorcycle up and then flip it onto its other side. 

 

5. Set the motorcycle on its sidestand and park it safely.